Israel’s tourism, already in deep crisis since the Gaza war began on October 7 nearly two years ago, faces an even longer road to recovery as tensions escalate with Iran following fresh conflict in mid-June.

As the exodus of foreign tourists continues, tourism is among the hardest-hit industries. As (Ms) Sana Srouji, general manager of Eternity Travel, put it: Those in tourism stop working during the war, but other occupations like lawyers and architects continue to have work and clients.

“All in God’s hands. In the end, we need foreign tourists to return,” Srouji said on the sidelines of the 30th International Mediterranean Travel Mart held May 7-8 in Tel Aviv, a month before Israel waged war with Iran.

Tourism decline worsens economic woes

The absence of tourists is taking a heavy toll, especially in key destinations. Bethlehem, birthplace of Jesus Christ and King David, remains quiet and deserted.

“All tourism entities are closed,” shared Majed Ishaq, owner and director general of Destination Point – Holy Land. “Unemployment is very high and poverty is increasing. Forty percent of the people in Bethlehem have zero income. Some families have sold their properties, furniture, cars, land… everything.”

Government assistance remains limited. Ishaq added, “The government cannot help because they are in a very serious financial crisis.”

Struggling to survive

Michel Awad, president of the Holy Land Incoming Tour Operators Association (HLITOA), said that as its members rely totally on tourism, “we push for the government to support our members to stay alive until tourism comes back”. HLITOA’s 45 members, which count many of the biggest and oldest tour operators, altogether bring about 40 per cent of the total arrivals in Israel.

With no income for a year and a half, he said HLITOA tries to sustain its members by getting some government support such as training while they find ways to get more business by working with different regulatory bodies and with both the public and private sectors while attending various international travel shows, including the Philippine Travel Agencies Association’s (PTAA) Travel Tour Expo early this year.

Life goes on amid conflict

Many Israelis have learned to carry on despite the conflict.

“I wake up every day, go to work, and bring my child to kindergarten. We need to keep hope alive,” said (Ms) Adi Messinger Kuta, sales manager of Jerusalem Garden Hotel and Spa.

Despite the turmoil, Kuta remains optimistic: “From the amenities and menu to hospitality and service, we try to keep better and better. We will be back to work with people we love to work with.”

The shared sentiment across Israel’s tourism sector is simple: tourists will return when peace returns to Holy Land.

“We hope this war and the war in Gaza will end soon. It is enough. We want to live in peace and stability,” Ishaq said.

The contrasts of Tel Aviv

There was no visage of war when we arrived in Tel Aviv that fine day in May, upon the invitation of Israel’s Ministry of Tourism. Young people, full of vitality and not having a care in the world were strolling, jogging and rollerblading near the beach. Are they having fun before they enlist to fight in the war? Some elderly were siting in the plaza lapping up the beautiful scenery on a balmy spring afternoon. Everything was hunky-dory in Israel’s vibrant and most modern city.

Yet reminders of conflict were present—signs to bomb shelters, safety instructions at hotels, and visible security measures—assurance that tourists safety and security is not being taken for granted. 

There were Israeli flags and Star of David buntings much more than usual, perhaps in celebration of the nation’s 77th year of independence that month. Despite the circumstances, the reduced tourist numbers allowed for more serene experiences, making this visit more intimate than previous trips.

Jerusalem: Sacred yet still

Jerusalem, sacred to Muslims, Jews, and Christians, is always a part of the pilgrims’ itinerary. In the Old City of Jerusalem we visited the humongous Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Jesus was crucified and died (known as Golgotha in the New Testament), where his body was prepared for burial and not far from it, the Edicule, where He was buried and resurrected.

It was surprisingly calm, the usual throngs of tourists gone and so were the long queues to each of the sites. Thus, the first time we were able to go inside the Edicule. There’s no need to line up to touch the remnant of the holy cross and the slab where Jesus was cleaned up for burial. 

The Western Wall, the last remnant of the Second Temple, was not so crowded. Here, with men on the left side segregated from women on the right side of the wall, the Jews pray, inserting their written prayers on the Wall’s crevices. It is also called the Wailing Wall due to the intensity of their prayers and mourning for the temple’s destruction.

Also in the Old City is the iconic golden Dome of the Rock. It is the oldest surviving Islamic monument in the world, a holy ground for Muslims as it is where the Prophet Muhammad was transported from Mecca to be taken up to heaven for a mystical encounter with God.

Culinary Delights

Despite the hardships, Israel’s culinary scene remained vibrant. From the best grilled lamb and baked salmon in Tel Aviv were unforgettable. The old city port of Akko (Acre) specializes in ceviche with fresh catch from the sea surrounding it.

The Mediterranean dishes are healthy yet flavorful, the oranges and persimmons are the sweetest non-pareil. No wonder the Israelis have the longest life expectancy in the world, second only to the Japanese. If not for the wars, maybe they would live longer than the Japanese.

Bedouin dishes have meat and rice, a variation of traditional Middle Eastern cuisine. Hummus and falafel, craft beers and wines, cheeses and dairy products and sweets are available from hall-in-the wall eateries to casual and fine dining restaurants.

Beyond Religion: Nature and History

Another attraction is the Dead Sea, actually a lake that’s too salty one cannot swim in it and is the lowest point on earth. It is renowned for the healing quality of its mud which has high mineral content. From there, a Negev Desert safari is available in an open jeep, up to the Jordan-Israel border when the Dead Sea ends.

This land of the Bible is not just for a casual visit. It has played a big role in medieval history and continues to shape world history. There is more to it than a spiritual and religious journey. This antique land has the depth and breadth and mystique rarely found in other destinations. Every corner, every cave, the desert, the hills, all whisper that there is so much to see, learn, discover, experience, reflect on, enjoy and appreciate.

As someone said in welcoming us, Israel is not just a place on the map, but a mosaic of moments: the first sunrise over Jerusalem’s rooftop, the stillness as the desert sky darkens to gaze at the stars, the magic of Shabbat (Sabbath) getting under one’s skin in the best possible way, hope – the Hebrew word is tikvah – that is a hymn in every encounter, in every landscape in Israel.

It is a world-class destination: a high-tech powerhouse, sophisticated security measures, clean surroundings, well-maintained tourist attractions, and efficient public transport system. 

Accredited tour guides undergo a two-year training that includes studies about the destination and its history and the Old and New Testament. They are also required to take a refresher course yearly. Our Korean tour guide, who speaks English and Hebrew and quite adept in Latin, is a professor and has a doctorate in biblical studies from one of the best universities in Israel.

A theme park of antiquity for archaeologists, they have excavated and continue to do so places mentioned in the Bible and proof that the historical Jesus and other biblical characters exists. 

Israel has perfected the art of preserving and restoring historical relics to their original. They use Jerusalem stone, a light-colored limestone quarry which is used in buildings and pavements for over a thousand years due to its beauty and durability. This kind of limestone is what makes Jerusalem literally gleams, especially when the sun shines on it.

When the medieval fortress was converted into the Tower of David/Museum of the History of Jerusalem, it was done in such a way that the museum blends with the city’s antique buildings while installing modern accoutrement without being tacky. 

The same holds true for excavated wonders like the fortress of Masada, the restoration of the medieval Crusader buildings and Knights Templar’s underground passageway in the coastal city of Akko (Acre), the city of Caesarea Maritima, among many others.

A Timeless Destination, Awaiting Peace

Israel is for a repeat visit, when peace reins in once more. As Steve Earle’s song “Jerusalem” reflects:

I woke up this morning and none of the news was good/ And death machines were rumbling ‘cross the ground where Jesus stood/And the man on my TV told me it had always been that way/ And there was nothing anyone could do or say/ I almost listened to him, yeah, I almost lost my mind/ Then I regained my senses again and looked into my heart to find/ That I believe that one fine day, all the children of Abraham/ Will lay down their swords forever in Jerusalem